The San Mateo Coast is still wonderfully undiscovered, from Montara to Año Nuevo. This may not last long; come soon!

Motoring south on famous Highway 1, after it quits being a freeway, you drive along notorious Devil's Slide (where bodies were conveniently dumped during the rumrunner wars of Prohibition and where a few choose even today to commit suicide with panache) and then encounter Montara, where the Goose & Turrets is located.

The construction you see means a tunnel will avoid the rockslide-prone area by 2010 and the old road will serve bikers and hikers.

Mount Montara's hiking trails offer a good workout as well as good looks at the ocean, birds, rare plants, and maybe even an endangered red-legged frog.

Just south in Moss Beach is the Fitzgerald Marine Reserve with ranger-led tours of the finest tidepools south of Mendocino. Hiking along the bluffs down to Princeton will reveal the shale shingle and Mavericks, a world famous surfing spot renowned for difficulty, danger, and super huge waves.

The 40 miles of San Mateo County shoreline invite fishing, surfing, picnicking, or absolute lethargy. During Prohibition, that shoreline was the smuggling base for local Italian and Portugese fishermen who quenched San Francisco's thirst. Speakeasies, bordellos, and 'clubs' have now grown respectable as restaurants and B&Bs. California's second largest fishing fleet weighs anchor at Pillar Point; sportfishermen can surf cast or join charter boat trips. Walking trails begin here and continue through Half Moon Bay; bring binoculars for sighting ducks, shorebirds, seals, and the occasional sea otter.

Bay Area florists and produce markets are stocked from the flowers, heather, artichokes, Brussels sprouts, and fava beans that cover the hills and valleys. In summer, one can pick one's own berries; in the autumn, one can select kiwis, pumpkins, and Christmas trees.

The village of Princeton, located at Pillar Point Harbor, is a destination for both boats and aircraft and offers restaurants, quaint shops, and live music -- all within walking distance of harbor and airport. The well maintained 5,000-foot runway attracts private pilots who come for adventure as well as for the nursery business.

Half Moon Bay has enough historic sites, imaginative food, art galleries, book stores, and craft studios to fill a couple of days. There's also horseback riding on the beach and world-class golf courses.

South from Half Moon Bay, San Gregorio has a fine beach and a picturesque town a mile inland. A group of 19th century buildings make this a popular spot for filming old-time movies; in the famous San Gregorio Store, one can find kerosene lanterns, new age food and music, and surprisingly serious books. It's owned by George Cattermole, former ethics professor at Stanford!

Pescadero Beach is a sure spot for seeing harbor seals hauled out on the rocks and, in the spring, a possible spot for seeing mother whales playing with the calves in the surf. Walk east of Highway 1 into Pescadero Marsh to see great blue herons, egrets, red-tailed hawks, pond turtles, and many unusual feathered friends during spring and fall migration. Naturalists lead walks on weekends. Two miles inland, Pescadero town boasts the best bread bakery. Buy two loaves at Archangelli's; one to eat in the car while you smell the other one. Picnic makings, home-made sausage, and local produce are also tempting. Across the street, have lunch at Duarte's which features cream of artichoke soup and the original Mrs. Duarte's ollalieberry pie. In the same family forever.

A few miles farther south, Pigeon Point lighthouse looms on the horizon. The light is presently (February 2009)) closed for repairs, but may be open again soon for weekend tours. There is a bookstore and information building. Behind the light at the edge of the ocean is a super whale and seabird watching location. The old keepers' quarters are now a comfortable hostel. Año Nuevo is perhaps the gem of the coast; it's one of only two approachable mainland rookeries in the world for visiting the Northern Elephant seals. Breeding season, December through March, sees sex and violence on the beach between these large critters who can reach 2-1/2 tons in weight. The rest of the year, lots of seals are always molting on the beaches.

Davenport is a pleasant place to sit down and eat and drink something after the wind and sand of Año Nuevo. The town was once a whaling station, and whales still come to scratch off their barnacles on the submerged cliffs. Further south is Santa Cruz, but that's another story.